Peru
10
 DAYS IN 
Peru

My second solo trip! It was so much fun and one of my favourite experiences. Peru was such a special place, and much like my first solo trip to Mongolia, each city was so distinct that I felt like I was visiting different countries. It was hard to decide on the itinerary because there were so many places to go and there was no way to fit every place within 10 days. And because the trip was so last minute, I couldn’t fix an itinerary before I reached. Apart from my round-trip flights and Machu Picchu train tickets, everything else was decided only one or two days before. I enjoyed the trip thoroughly, and even though it’s a bummer missing out on places I wished I had visited, like the Amazon, Nazca Lines, and Arequipa, I’m glad that I took the time to explore each city instead of rushing through each one.

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My initial plan was to go to Guatemala after I watched this incredible video that got me hooked. Still, it was a problematic itinerary to arrange, and I wasn’t sure if it was feasible. Somehow, I found out that May was the start of the dry season in Peru (and the end for Guatemala), and I saw that train and entrance tickets for Machu Picchu were available, which tend to sell out months in advance. I went straight for it.

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One thing I wasn’t expecting was that while Peru is relatively cheaper than the US, most places were only accessible through tours or taxis. That tolled the budget, or more specifically, threw all budgeting out of the window.

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TRANSPORT | Given the scale of Peru, most transport options were either a short flight or a long bus ride. I had to fly from Lima to Cusco and from Puno back to Lima through LATAM (tip: don’t book late because the price keeps increasing). From Cusco to Puno, I took a 7+ hour bus down. Although many bus companies operate in Peru, I was worried about stolen baggage. I found Transzela to be the most reputable and booked tickets through Bookaway.

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DOING THINGS DIFFERENTLY | I learned a lot more about Peru while I was there, and if I knew that I could add another day to my Huacachina Tour to fly over the Nazca lines, I would probably cut the Sacred Valley tour to reduce a day in Cusco. Even though Peru had so much more to offer, I thoroughly enjoyed my trip and did not regret any part!

 

HIGHLIGHTS | Machu Picchu, Rainbow Mountain ATV, Lake Titicaca, Uros Islands, Taquile Islands, Ballestas Island 

Day 2 & 3: Aguas Calientes & Machu Picchu 

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This was a slightly complicated arrangement for me - I wasn’t sure how to arrange Machu Picchu and Cusco. I decided to head to Aguas Calientes first, i.e., Machu Picchu town, because it was below the altitude sickness level and was good ground to acclimate. Also, if there were any reasons I couldn’t get to Machu Picchu on schedule, then at least I could rearrange my itinerary since it’s the one place I flew to Peru for…

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There was nothing much to do in Aguas Calientes except maybe Mariposario de Machupicchu (Butterfly Garden), but it was a good place to rest and relax.

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The only issue was that the train to Aguas Calientes only allowed a small bag and I had a small hand-carry luggage. So I took a taxi, which I booked (and most of my other taxis) through Taxidatum, after landing at Cusco airport, and stopped at my hostel before getting to Poroy Station. In the end, I saw that quite a few people brought their small luggage with no issue as long as it did not obstruct the passageways, but better safe than sorry.

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There were two train companies to get to and from Aguas Calientes, and I picked PeruRail over IncaRail because the consensus was that PeruRail trains were relatively newer. I took the Expedition there and the Vistadome (the premium cabin of the same train) back because I didn’t want to miss out, but I thought the differences were marginal. The Vistadome had slightly larger windows, a quick cultural show, and a small snack box, which was not worth paying 40% more.

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There were three things to book for Machu Picchu - the bus from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu, the Machu Picchu entrance ticket, and the Machu Picchu tour. The entrance ticket had to be booked as early in advance as possible. Honestly, I was lucky that there was one ticket left for the 7 am slot that allowed me to enter at 10 am with the tour because they weren’t strict on enforcing the ticket time. The tour could be booked anytime, but it just had to match the entrance ticket - I just picked the recommended route, Circuit 1, 2, 3, and 4, because I didn’t have the strength for a hike. The bus could also be booked anytime.

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Machu Picchu was an incredible sight to see, and learn how a community in the 15th century found and built a community in such a remote region. It’s no Choquequirao, but it was the most commercialized and accessible ruins for tourists. The tour took slightly more than half a day, but there was ample time to take the last train back to Cusco.

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Some people do a day trip from Cusco to Machu Picchu, but the logistics involved (including for the rest of Peru) were extensive and as exhausting as it sounds. I decided to take it slow and leave some buffer time so I didn’t have to rush or risk altitude sickness, so… plenty of buffer for chill time!

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I STAYED AT Hatun Inti Boutique Hotel because I was sold when I saw a bathtub with a view. It was even better when I was there and realized that it was a prime location. It was only a couple of minutes to the train station (between Cusco) or the bus stop (between Machu Picchu), not to mention it was steps away from the best restaurants in Aguas Calientes. I ate at Chullos and Full House, and they were both pretty amazing.

Day 2 & 3: Aguas Calientes & Machu Picchu 

‍

This was a slightly complicated arrangement for me - I wasn’t sure how to arrange Machu Picchu and Cusco. I decided to head to Aguas Calientes first, i.e., Machu Picchu town, because it was below the altitude sickness level and was good ground to acclimate. Also, if there were any reasons I couldn’t get to Machu Picchu on schedule, then at least I could rearrange my itinerary since it’s the one place I flew to Peru for…

‍

There was nothing much to do in Aguas Calientes except maybe Mariposario de Machupicchu (Butterfly Garden), but it was a good place to rest and relax.

‍

The only issue was that the train to Aguas Calientes only allowed a small bag and I had a small hand-carry luggage. So I took a taxi, which I booked (and most of my other taxis) through Taxidatum, after landing at Cusco airport, and stopped at my hostel before getting to Poroy Station. In the end, I saw that quite a few people brought their small luggage with no issue as long as it did not obstruct the passageways, but better safe than sorry.

‍

There were two train companies to get to and from Aguas Calientes, and I picked PeruRail over IncaRail because the consensus was that PeruRail trains were relatively newer. I took the Expedition there and the Vistadome (the premium cabin of the same train) back because I didn’t want to miss out, but I thought the differences were marginal. The Vistadome had slightly larger windows, a quick cultural show, and a small snack box, which was not worth paying 40% more.

‍

There were three things to book for Machu Picchu - the bus from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu, the Machu Picchu entrance ticket, and the Machu Picchu tour. The entrance ticket had to be booked as early in advance as possible. Honestly, I was lucky that there was one ticket left for the 7 am slot that allowed me to enter at 10 am with the tour because they weren’t strict on enforcing the ticket time. The tour could be booked anytime, but it just had to match the entrance ticket - I just picked the recommended route, Circuit 1, 2, 3, and 4, because I didn’t have the strength for a hike. The bus could also be booked anytime.

‍

Machu Picchu was an incredible sight to see, and learn how a community in the 15th century found and built a community in such a remote region. It’s no Choquequirao, but it was the most commercialized and accessible ruins for tourists. The tour took slightly more than half a day, but there was ample time to take the last train back to Cusco.

‍

Some people do a day trip from Cusco to Machu Picchu, but the logistics involved (including for the rest of Peru) were extensive and as exhausting as it sounds. I decided to take it slow and leave some buffer time so I didn’t have to rush or risk altitude sickness, so… plenty of buffer for chill time!

‍

I STAYED AT Hatun Inti Boutique Hotel because I was sold when I saw a bathtub with a view. It was even better when I was there and realized that it was a prime location. It was only a couple of minutes to the train station (between Cusco) or the bus stop (between Machu Picchu), not to mention it was steps away from the best restaurants in Aguas Calientes. I ate at Chullos and Full House, and they were both pretty amazing.

Day 4 - 6: Cusco

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I had three full days,​​ so I split them between three tours - the Cusco City Tour, the Sacred Valley, and a Rainbow Mountain tour. I kept my itinerary relaxed because, as much as I wanted to explore Cusco, I didn’t want to fall ill and reshuffle all my plans. As much as I thought I avoided altitude sickness because I drank as much coca leaf tea as I could, and I didn’t feel the sickness the first day, it still hit me on occasion over the next couple of days. I should have prepared myself with altitude sickness pills, and I was just lucky I didn’t start puking like this lady on my tour, enduring an hour van ride back to Cusco.

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If you’ve just arrived in Cusco, get a bottle of Agua de Florida! I didn’t hear of it till it was too late, but people on my tour used it, providing fast relief to altitude sickness. A must-have.

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The tour for Cusco City and Sacred Valley was pretty cool and gave insight into how the Incas lived, but the most incredible part for me was the Rainbow Mountain Tour with the ATV. Hands down, my favorite part of the trip! I wasn’t as interested in Rainbow Mountain because it was just a mountain to me, but taking the ATV through such incredible terrains was a peak peak peak experience!! Bonus, we didn’t have to hike over an hour to the top, where many of them suffered from altitude sickness.

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I STAYED AT Saqray Hostel. It was a good budget place for me and one of the places I enjoyed thoroughly. I stayed in a single room, which wasn’t the most comfortable, but it was an experience because the staff and people there were so open to making meaningful connections. It was my first time in South America, and it couldn’t have been a better place to learn about the culture of the people in Peru and the neighboring countries.

Day 7 & 8: Lake Titicaca (Uros Island and Taquile Island)

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I wanted to visit Lake Titicaca, but I wasn’t too sure if it was worth taking a 7-hour bus that ended up taking the entire day, but after coming on the other side of it, I would say it’s so worth it! I witnessed the lives of two entirely different communities - the Uros tribe and the people of Taquile - and it was a true eye-opener.

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I booked the Transzela to get to Cusco - there were a couple of different operators, but Transzela had the best reviews, and I didn’t want to risk losing my luggage with others. I didn’t face any issues, and it was pretty great. The seats were not Flixbus-type but comfortable, full reclining seats.

I booked a tour covering Lake Titicaca - Uros and Taquile Islands - they were nice enough to pick me up from my lodge on Lake Titicaca, and it covered the journey back to Puno. As if Machu Picchu wasn’t impressive enough, I witnessed such amazing and different communities that I had never heard of, and learned so much about their way of life. It was such a peaceful place, and I wish I could have spent more time there.

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I STAYED AT Lake Titicaca because staying on a floating island was not something I would miss, so I booked one on Airbnb. Each floating “island” was owned by a family from the Uros tribe, and it was a unique experience to spend time there. Many people stayed for more than a night, but I was glad I only spent one, as much as it was beautiful, it was freezing even with the six layers of blanket and my down jacket.

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I stayed the other night at a hotel in Puno, so it was convenient to return to Lima; it wasn’t great, but it did the job. There wasn’t much in Puno, and I would have left without having to stay in Puno, but the flights to Lima didn’t match.

Day 9 & 10: Ballestas Island & Huacachina

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I had only 2 days left and couldn’t decide between Huacachina and Arequipa -  I have always wanted to visit the desert oasis, but read very underwhelming reviews. I had initially planned for Arequipa, but someone on my Sacred Valley tour recommended doing the Huacachina tour through PeruHop. So I changed my plan at the last moment (and damn booking that Avianca flight to Lima at 3x the regular price is not good at all).

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I flew to Lima, which took half of the day, and spent some time at my favorite place, Malecón de Miraflores. I had dinner at Rafael - one of the top places I’ve been to, and it was so good I had three plates and a dessert.

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The tour was so worth it! Not because of the desert oasis - true enough, the photos online were misleading and it felt like I was visiting an abandoned lake - but the highlights were the wildlife at Ballestas Island (the “mini Galapagos”) and the dune buggy rides at Huacachina. So much fun. It also helped that they settled all the logistics - pickup from the hotel, all the transport, and lunch, and even dropped me off at the airport.

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I didn’t know that for another day, I could add and take a flight over the Nazca lines; I wish I had done that.

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I STAYED AT Selina Posada Miraflores, only a few blocks from Kennedy Park. It had a shared bathroom, but because there were only single rooms on my floor, it was shared only among three rooms, so it was quite acceptable for a short night stay.