Day 2 - 4: Fez and Volubilis

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We took the 4-hour train to Fes and got a taxi to our accommodations. One misleading thing was that on Google Maps, everything was accessible by car, but everything in the walled city of Fez is pedestrian-only, and the Airbnb we stayed in was quite deep in.

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Fez was an exciting place to explore because it’s the oldest and largest medina in North Africa, and it was an eye-opener to see people live within the walls of such a vast compound. One thing to note: it is tough to navigate around the maze and locals would offer to guide you to a place you want to go and they use tactics like telling you the route you wish to go is closed (not true) or go a longer route to confuse you, and they tend to demand a fee for the service. It’s inevitable if you’re lost; otherwise, seeking help from your accommodation, guide, or trusting the map is better!

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Of course, we had to start with a walking tour. It’s probably more or less mandatory for Fez because it was so hard to navigate even with Google Maps in hand. Elhadi grew up in the city and knows a lot about it, especially the hidden spots you wouldn’t know without locals! However, I must say the price was higher for Fez and Morocco.

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We took a day trip to Volubilis, Moulay Idriss, and Meknes. Learning about the Roman influence in Morocco was interesting, but I think I’d skip it.

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WE STAYED AT a pretty excellent Dar. Great living space, and great rooms, four stories high, and had a panoramic view of the city, made better because we are in the middle of the city. The Dar also had a guardian who helped us with recommendations, prepared breakfast, and managed the housekeeping.

Day 2 - 4: Fez and Volubilis

‍

We took the 4-hour train to Fes and got a taxi to our accommodations. One misleading thing was that on Google Maps, everything was accessible by car, but everything in the walled city of Fez is pedestrian-only, and the Airbnb we stayed in was quite deep in.

‍

Fez was an exciting place to explore because it’s the oldest and largest medina in North Africa, and it was an eye-opener to see people live within the walls of such a vast compound. One thing to note: it is tough to navigate around the maze and locals would offer to guide you to a place you want to go and they use tactics like telling you the route you wish to go is closed (not true) or go a longer route to confuse you, and they tend to demand a fee for the service. It’s inevitable if you’re lost; otherwise, seeking help from your accommodation, guide, or trusting the map is better!

‍

Of course, we had to start with a walking tour. It’s probably more or less mandatory for Fez because it was so hard to navigate even with Google Maps in hand. Elhadi grew up in the city and knows a lot about it, especially the hidden spots you wouldn’t know without locals! However, I must say the price was higher for Fez and Morocco.

‍

We took a day trip to Volubilis, Moulay Idriss, and Meknes. Learning about the Roman influence in Morocco was interesting, but I think I’d skip it.

‍

WE STAYED AT a pretty excellent Dar. Great living space, and great rooms, four stories high, and had a panoramic view of the city, made better because we are in the middle of the city. The Dar also had a guardian who helped us with recommendations, prepared breakfast, and managed the housekeeping.

Days 5 & 6: Marrakesh

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KOUTOBIA MOSQUE

SAADIAN TOMBS

BAHIA PALACE

JEMAA EL-FNA SQUARE

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We allocated a full day of travel to get from Fez to Marrakesh. We booked a private 16-seater car that was the same price (after negotiation) as we would pay for eight tickets on the train. I didn’t know which option was better, but with lunch and breaks in the middle, our 7-hour journey was closer to 9 hours!

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Our Marrakesh trip was separated into two because Marrakesh was the only airport we could fly out of to get to Nice, so it had to be our last stop. But with the journey from Fez so long, it would be too exhausting to go straight to Ait Benhaddou, adding another 4 hours.

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We had a full day in Marrakesh and went on a walking tour! We covered most historic places within the Medina and learned much about the city's history. It also happened to be just us so that we could go at a leisurely pace. We ended at Tinsmith Square outside Bahia Palace and had lunch at Malah Cafe & Restaurant, the only good place in the area. We ended the day with an Agafay Desert tour - it was so relaxing, we had dinner in the desert, and it ended with a good song and dance. Good vibes! It was a rock desert and nothing like the Merzouga desert, but it was only half an hour from Marrakech and well worth the trip.

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WE STAYED AT Riad Miloud, which was nicely furnished and so relaxing to chill on the cushions by the pool. Every room had its toilet (essential), and a spacious rooftop, although I learned that Morocco is too hot to utilize any great rooftops fully. Having stayed at two different riads in Marrakech, I preferred staying in the central medina, where visiting the main attractions like Souk Semmarine was more convenient.

Day 7: Ait Benhaddou

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We booked a private car (which I had a bad experience with) that brought us from our Riad in Marrakech to Ait Benhaddou. We went to our accommodation, and our host brought us around Ait Benhaddou.

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WE STAYED AT Kasbah Tebi and man, it was an experience of a lifetime! I was initially quite worried because the pictures did look quite shady. I knew it was a unique experience that triumphs staying at some hotel outside, so I trusted the good reviews. I am glad because it is way nicer than in the photos, and staying in a clay fortified 400-year-old village is as unique as it sounds. Our host, Mohammed, comes from a family with a long history in Ait Benhaddou and has recently renovated the place.

We passed by another accommodation within Ait Benhaddou called Kasbah El Hajja, which I didn’t come across while searching online. However, I think these are the only two Kasbahs operating within Ait Benhaddou.

Days 8 & 9: Atlas Mountains

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We had the same private car (booked for 2 days) that brought us to Atlas Studios and Ouarzazate Solar Power Station before sending us to Kasbah Bab Ourika.

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One thing I learned, especially for Morocco, is that wherever the drivers or guides recommend meals, it’s a restaurant where they receive kickbacks that may not be good, so checking the reviews before agreeing is essential. We had our lunch at a place full of tourists, and it was the worst food I ate in Morocco.

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WE STAYED AT Kasbah Bab Ourika, our R&R. They weren’t on any booking platforms, and I had to email back and forth for a booking. It was more than twice the average rate of our other accommodations, but I think it was so worth it. It was so serene and almost like the Moroccan equivalent of the Aegean Islands. We stayed two nights to get a full day in, and even though there were activities like trekking around the area, we chose to stay and enjoy the facilities within the Kasbah.

Day 10 & 11: Marrakech

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DAR EL BACHA MUSEUM (BACHA COFFEE)

SOUK SEMMARINE

YVES SAINT LAURENT MUSEUM

JARDIN MAJORELLE

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We stayed at Kasbah Bab Ourika as late as possible, so we had the afternoon and the following day in Marrakech. We walked around Souk Semmarine, where there was so much to see and so many things I was tempted to buy, well, we all bought something in the end. We ended the day at Dar El Bacha Museum, a wonderful Dar, and where the OG Bacha Coffee is. There was a long line for Bacha Coffee (of course), so getting the Museum admission tickets and a queue number for the cafe was essential. Super beautiful place, and the menu for coffee was so extensive. I don’t know much about coffee, so it was good that they could recommend coffee that suited each of our tastes.

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Our last morning was for the YSL museum, which must be booked at least a day or two in advance. My highlight was Jardin Majorelle (attached to the YSL museum) - a zen space with a beautiful cacti garden.

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WE STAYED AT Riad Baba Ali. It wasn’t as well-furnished as Riad Miloud, but it was much more spacious and in a much better location to access most of the medina. I like both, but I am slightly inclined to Riad Baba Ali!