I started planning it 6 months before the trip. I spent hours finding and identifying the correct itinerary configuration, accommodations, and car rentals because of how extensive the Dolomites are, but it was frankly quite simple with the right resources.
The Dolomites were slightly tricky to plan because the options were boundless - you can do a day trip, you can do a week, you can even do a month, and you would still have enough to cover this beautiful region. We planned for around 5-6 days since that was what we had available, and worked around that. Since the Dolomites are roughly split into the east and west sides, we planned to spend half on each side to see both highlights. It was a good number of days and made it worth the 3-hour drive to and from the Dolomites, although I could easily spend 2 months here without wanting to leave. It didn’t matter if we started on the east or the west side since we were traveling a loop, and our decision was based on accommodation availability and rates.
The highly complete itinerary and guide I found in Cat’s Nine Lives helped me with this itinerary helped me pick the days/areas I wanted to visit and slot them into my itinerary.
We went in October because that was immediately after the peak period, so we could avoid the crowds while still getting some good weather. Unfortunately, that wasn’t the case. We woke up to heavy snow on our first day and had another couple of days of rain that messed our plans a little, though I heard it was not expected at that time of the year, and I was a little bumped that we missed the beautiful orange that the Dolomites turned into a week after we left.
I flew into Venice, the closest international airport I could fly into, while my friends flying within Europe flew to Verona airport. There are various airports to fly into, depending on which airport you can fly to and which part of the Dolomites you’re heading to. Via Ferrata Dolomiti provides the best visual representation of the best airports.
TRANSPORT | Given that we are slightly off-peak, renting a car was our best bet. It was a good idea as it gave us a lot of flexibility in our schedule without having to track the reduced transport schedules. With so many things to consider, having one less thing on our minds was good. Car rentals in Italy seemed like a tricky situation, so we went with the most affordable, reputable brand. We went with Avis in Verona, which was as pleasant as possible.
DOING THINGS DIFFERENTLY | I should have brought the right equipment, especially hiking shoes! Walking in my running shoes with little grip was not a great experience, especially when the trails were icy. And having a couple more days would have been a dream.
WE STAYED AT Chalet Alpenrose in Lake Misurina and Avita Loft by Avita Suites to relax in Santa Cristina in Val Gardena. There are two main towns that people in the Dolomites stay at, which are Cortina d'Ampezzo on the west side and Ortisei (or Urtijei) in Val Gardena on the east side, which are most accessible by public transport and most adequately equipped. Having a car allowed us to expand the scope of where we could stay, especially when prices were lower outside these two towns. Chalet Alpenrose was terrific, mainly because it allowed us to start the day with a beautiful lake and end the day with a stroll around Lake Misurina. However, Avita Loft won the prize. It was such an excellent and well-furnished apartment with a private bio sauna, and it was just the best place to be when we were stuck in the apartment due to poor weather.
HIGHLIGHTS | Everything. Just everything. But also Seceda and Avita Loft.
Day 0: Drive to Lake Misurina
We arrived in the afternoon, collected the car, and headed to Lake Misurina. Due to the car collection (we were told the car didn’t come with insurance, even though it should have, and we had to look at other options on the spot) and unexpected traffic, we only reached our accommodations late at night.
Day 1: Tre Cime di Lavaredo
We woke up to snow covering the entire landscape at dawn on an early October day. And here I was, thinking I was here for sweater weather. I had come for the greenery and perhaps a glimpse of that orange foliage, which was unexpected.
Hot tip: If you’re visiting Tre Cime di Lavaredo, go early! We started the morning a little later since we were staying close by (and also just because it’s vacation), but we were surprised by a long queue that didn’t move much. Nobody knew if the car park was full and if it would open. We were about to turn around after an hour when the car park opened and let several cars in.
My Nike shoe and I did not conquer the Dolomites—the snow was starting to turn into slush, and with the steep terrain, I had to crawl through. Foolishly, we started walking when we saw a trail. It turned out different from the trail to Tre Cime (check the map before walking!).
After our arduous morning hike, we had a simple lunch at Rifugio Auronzo by the car park before hiking the trail to Tre Cime. We couldn’t visit Tre Cime Cave (2 2-hour hike from Rifugio Auronzo) as we had to return before sunset.
Day 2: Lago di Braies & San Candido
We tried to wake up early because we knew how aggressive the tour groups would be flocking to this hotspot, and we were right. Luckily, it’s quite an expansive area, so it didn’t feel overly crowded. However, if you’re there for the boats, it’s best to be early as lines form quickly, and wait times can get long. We walked around the lake for around two hours and then sat by Emma's Bistro to enjoy the lake.
We headed to San Candido for lunch and to see some of the town. It was a beautiful, quaint town, and in some ways, I enjoyed it more than Cortina d’Ampezzo. We had lunch at Botanic Wachtler, which had such a vibe.
After San Candido, we had some time to stroll around Lago di Dobbiaco before returning to Misurina.
Day 3: Val di Funes & Ortisei
We packed our bags early in the day to head west. Rain was anticipated, so we chose a flexible non-hiking activity, beginning with Val di Funes. We started at a car park in Santa Magdalena before wandering around and viewing St. John Church (there’s no reason to visit the church from the viewpoint).
We made our way to Ortisei for some spectacular pizza at Turonda. After lunch, as the rain intensified, we didn’t have much to do, so we strolled around town before heading to our new Airbnb in the neighboring village of Santa Cristina Valgardena.
I must say that Avita Loft was one of the best accommodations I’ve ever stayed in - so stunning and well-equipped, there is no better place to spend a rainy holiday. It offered exceptional value and demonstrated that you didn’t need to spend a thousand pounds a night at Forestis Dolomites (which, of course, is an excellent option if that’s what you’re after).
Day 4: Sassolungo & Seceda
We began our day at Sassolungo, home to the “Coffin Lift” (Telecabine Gondelbahn Forcella del Sassolungo) cable car. I wasn’t even aware of this cable car before our trip. It’s a vertical, single-person cable car that transports you to the top of Sassolungo.
Exploring Sassolungo could easily take an entire day, as the hiking circuit takes around six hours to complete. You can either hike the entire circuit or take a shortcut through the middle, passing by Langkofelhütte / Rifugio Vicenza. This spot is likely one of the most beautiful, but since I was unprepared and lacked proper hiking gear, I decided to save the hike for another time. Instead, we opted for the cable car ride to the top and back down. Unfortunately, the view at the top was mostly obstructed, but we wanted to experience the cable car ride.
In the afternoon, we took the Seceda cable car from Ortisei and walked up to the viewpoint.
Seceda turned out to be my favorite spot. The breathtaking view of the Odle peaks was captivating, and there was something truly special about the trails along the gentle slope overlooking the vast plains. To top it all off, enjoying a beer at Troier Hütte while taking in the view felt like the perfect moment.
Just a tip: be mindful of the time and don’t miss the last cable car! We ended up having to hike back down, which took about an hour and a half. While it was a beautiful hike and I had no major complaints, I couldn't help but think about the cable car ticket gone to waste.
Day 5: Alpe di Siusi
Our last full day had a more relaxed itinerary due to the rainy weather. We spent the morning chatting at a cozy coffee bar called Pitla Stua. Unfortunately, we didn't extend our parking because of the heavy rain, and we ended up with a €30 parking fine.
After lunch, when the rain eased up a bit, we decided to take the Seilbahnen St. Ulrich up to the Seiser Alm (Alpe di Siusi in Italian). Sadly, due to the heavy rain and fog, there wasn't much to see. I know the views would have been spectacular on a clearer day.
Day 6: Bolzano, Lake Garda, & Verona
This was our last day, and we stopped in Bolzano and Lake Garda on our way to Verona, where my friends were flying out. I took the train to Venice for another night before my flight. We were quite ambitious, given that we were visiting three different towns, but we decided to take a quick look at each one.
In hindsight, I wish I had skipped Bolzano. While it’s not a bad town, I felt that with our limited time, I would have enjoyed spending more time at Lake Garda. The detour to Bolzano was longer than expected, and the driving and parking situation there was quite challenging. Unless you’re interested in seeing Ötzi the Iceman at the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology, it’s easy to forgo a visit.
Lake Garda, specifically the Sirmione area, was beautiful. I’ve never been to Lake Como, so I can’t compare the two, but Lake Garda was picturesque. The weather and water were amazing, the parks were lovely, and walking through the medieval castle was a highlight. I would love to return and stay for a few days.
When we returned the car and headed to Verona, it was already late at night, so we didn’t get a chance to explore the town. However, we were fortunate to encounter a wine festival, Hostaria, which featured wine booths scattered throughout the city center. It was a fun experience!